27.05.2014 - 28.05.2014 102 °F
We leave Fez at 9pm, on an overnight bus to the southern town of Rissani. Not the most relaxing ride as Moroccan drivers are erratic. We get in at 6am and are immediatly bombarded by locals trying to sell us desert tours. One guy was even on the bus with us, so I even got hassled before a left the bus. We had made prior arrangements and we were greeted at the bus station by our driver. We then departed down the road to get to the largest sand dunes in Morocco.
We arrive at the kasbah and after enjoying a nice mint tea while watching the sunrise we inquired about breakfast. They informed us that it was not included the first morning and we had to wait til dinner, which ended up to be 10:30pm. No lunch either. After a nap and some granola bars, we sweat it out in the desert heat for a few hours til evening. Here we tried using the internet and take showers with no pressure or heat. The owner then informed us we had 15 minutes til we departed on the camels despite being told that we were doing that the next day. Hurried by the guides we head into the desert on camel back. Had a slight delay when one of the camels had issues with a guy from Georgia. It almost reared up and was yelling and chomping. The guy refused to use that camel and insisted on another. This was when we were informed we had to bring our own water and we could buy some from them. Luckily, the Georgian had gallons of water to share.
Despite the hassle and aggravation of the tour company, once we were in the desert it was all worth it. Gently swaying in rhythm with the camel and enjoying the sunset against the high dunes was one of the reasons we came to Morocco.
At night we were finally fed a tagine of chicken and vegetables, that was heavenly with cantaloupe and watermelon as a dessert. No pictures as it was by candlelight. We then we entertained by the crystal clear stars and drums and songs of the Berbers. We turned in after watching shooting stars, bats and desert cats.
In the morning, we headed back and had a breakfast of the local Berber pancake, with jams and honey to dip it in.
Then we enjoyed another day in sweltering heat and nothing to do other than play card games. If you go to Morocco, the desert excursion is a must but avoid Kasbah Bivouc Lahmada at all costs. There plenty of options here in the desert. We then departed in the morning on another all day bus ride to Marrakesh.